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Skin Barrier Guide

From my journey through skincare and beauty, I’ve come to realize that good skin health is all about a robust skin barrier. The skin barrier is the outermost part of the epidermis, acting like a wall with skin cells as bricks and mortar of essential nutrients like cholesterol, ceramides, and fatty acids. Our skin barrier can be damaged by inherent factors like eczema, stress, or illness, as well as external factors such as sun, wind, or topical irritants. Even active skincare ingredients like retinoids or soaps containing sodium lauryl sulfate can disrupt the skin barrier, as well as poor sleep, allergens, and pollution.

You know when your skin barrier has been damaged if your skin is flaky, ashy, or feels irritated or tight. It may also appear redder or darker than normal, plus itchiness. Acne breakouts, rosacea, and eczema are additional signs of an impaired skin barrier. Basically, your skin struggles to keep hydration.

To repair your skin barrier, start first by simplifying your skincare routine. One of the most common reasons for skin barrier damage is overusing beauty products or applying too many products at once. If your skin is overwhelmed with aggressive creams and lotions, it will start to break down. So, put your skin on an elimination diet of sorts. Cease using all but the gentlest of products like CeraVe’s Hydrating Cleanser to give your skin a chance to rest and regroup.

As you pare back your skincare routine, it’s also important to avoid anything that exfoliates the skin. Even rough washcloths and clay-based products can irritate. And be sure to wash with lukewarm instead of hotter water, which can cause further damage. Hopefully, you will see improvement in your barrier within three to four weeks.

Once your skin has had a chance to rest and balance out, then start to repair. Look for ceramide-rich moisturizers like Cetaphil’s Rich Night Cream and SkinCeuticals’ Epidermal Repair, which will help restore the skin barrier to its former self. You can also incorporate hyaluronic acid into your routine to soothe and hydrate your skin with such products as e.l.f.’s Holy Hydration triple bounce serum or Neutrogena’s Hydro Boost hyaluronic acid serum. Other key ingredients to look for include niacinamide and fatty acids to help build back your barrier.

You can slowly start to introduce treatment products such as retinol and vitamin C but do so one at a time. Use retinoids for a few weeks before adding an exfoliant and so forth. As you reintroduce products to your regiment, take a holistic approach and pay attention to how your skin reacts. Back off the latest product addition if you see or feel any irritation; protection is also key, so be sure to use a broad-spectrum SPF to keep your barrier safe from UV rays, pollutants, and other environmental aggressors.

Lastly, balance is essential for a healthy skincare routine. What goes on your skin is almost as important as what goes on underneath it. A balanced diet, drinking water, and getting rest all lead to more resilient skin and overall health.