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Layering from the Outside In

So often, guides on how to layer start with the base, or first layer, and then work up through to the outermost layer, which makes sense as that’s how we dress. You don’t often start with an overcoat and try to wiggle into tees and jeans underneath. But for a change of pace, I want to start with the outer layer first, then the mid layers, and lastly, the inner layer to refresh my approach to dressing for more distinctive looks. Here’s a rundown of how to layer from the outside in.

Instead of selecting a base layer on which to build your look, start with outerwear. What coat will complete your outfit? A puffer, trench coat, barn jacket, windbreaker? Try to steer clear of anything too bulky or restrictive, as it will be difficult to layer underneath. Sure, it depends on the weather, so after checking the forecast, pick your topper. Once you select your outerwear, that style will then dictate the rest of your look. If you’re in the market for some new jackets, I like Zara’s Contrast Cuffs Jacket with its round neck, flap patch pockets, and, as the name says, contrasting cuffs. This jacket allows you to flip up and display a collar from a mid-layer piece for visual interest. It pairs as well with jeans as it does with dress pants. This is an unexpected jacket to layer over a blazer or heavier collared shirt.

Leather is always a sharp outerwear option. Wilsons’ Leather’s Nora Button Down Lamb Trench begs to be layered with a high-necked blouse, dark denim, and boots. Or wear it over a cozy sweater dress with plus accessories to create a mix of hard and soft. For more warmth, check out Columbia Sportswear’s Apres Arson down jacket. For the really blistering days, this coat will keep you snug and can be worn casually or to finish off a more polished look. I love the idea of wearing a heavy coat and each layer going from rugged to cozy to delicate. With this coat, I’d do a mid-layer of a chunky pullover with a midi wool skirt and ankle boots, then have a base layer of a silk camisole and textured tights like Calzedonia’s Floral Tulle 60 Denier Tights. The complete look will have this burly coat, a heavy skirt, and then just a flash of floral and silver glitter motif between the skirt hem and boot — an unexpected bit of glamour in a functional winter outfit.

Coats are not the only element of the outer layer. Cold-weather accouterments and standard accessories should also be considered part of the outermost layer. The type of hat you wear will affect the type of earrings you choose. The type of shoe will steer you toward the type of pants, and so on. You don’t want these elements to compete with each other or cause mishaps: Hoop earrings getting caught on a knit cap or a pointy heel ripping the hem of a wide-leg pant. Knowing your wardrobe helps when putting together outfits from the outside in, so you may have to do a closet cleanout to better understand what you have to work with.

For the mid-layer, consider what best works under your coat. If being cold is an issue, you may utilize another lighter jacket under a roomy topper. Opt for something soft rather than heavy, like L.L. Bean’s Katahdin Fleece Full-Zip Jacket. This mid-layer piece is brushed inside and out for a super soft touch. If you want to sport a blazer, then be sure you can button/zip your outerwear over it without too much bulk. This can be tricky, so a knit blazer is a hassle-free alternative to wear under a coat. J.Crew Factory’s Schoolboy Sweater Blazer comes in fantastic fall colors like loden, acorn, and ivory. Match up this blazer with a striped tee and khakis or a button-down tucked into high-waisted jeans.

Other go-to mid-layer options include flannel shirts, V-neck sweaters, and cardigans. I prefer a “borrowed-from-the-boys” flannel and love to thrift the men’s section for a rugged plaid mid-layer. Cardigans can also be thrifted from the men’s aisle, especially if you are seeking out the elusive but ubiquitous “grandpa” cardi. If you’re less than thrilled about secondhand, check out Duluth Trading Co’s Women’s Free Swingin’ Flannel Shirt to layer over a turtleneck. Quince’s 100% Organic Cotton Oversized Cable Cardigan is the mid-layer for a maxi dress and leggings look. Quince is also a solid source for V-neck sweaters to layer over button-ups or sleeveless blouses.

Lastly, the base layer. At this point in the layering process, your base is, of course, a matter of function — think undergarment, socks, etc. — but it can also have some surprising elements. I mentioned previously silk camisoles. Target’s in-store brand, New Day, has some solid, affordable options. If you’re looking for something a bit fancy, then check out Lilysilk’s collection of cami and silk tank tops. Another element to incorporate into your base layer is scent. Yes, a few spritzes of perfume behind the ears, back of the neck, and wrists — don’t get any closer to the skin than that. I enjoy Philosphy’s Amazing Grace Bergamot eau de toilette to start and then I like to reapply through the day with Replica’s Lazy Sunday Morning fresh and floral eau de toilette for a fragrant pick-me-up.

There are various layering approaches, and if you have your go-to formula, then by all means, do what works. But if you’re looking to switch things up or try out a few different combos, then consider layering from the outside in.