I’ve been dying my hair since I was 15, so I’m not quite sure when the silver strands of middle age started to appear, but they are here now. The good news is, although some gray hair is more difficult and more resistant to hair color, the technology around the products used to color hair now is amazing for both professional salons and at-home dyers. I, myself, DIY when it comes to hair color, but I’ve also consulted stylists regularly on the best ways to approach natural-looking hair dye. Whether you’re looking to cover up the gray, do a brand-new color treatment, or embrace those silver strands, here are a few tips and tricks for coloring gray hair.
If you’re investing in professional hair color, first book a consultation. A hairstylist will assess your hair and its needs and, if necessary, give you a patch test if you’re new to the salon. You may just need your roots covered, or you may want to take color all the way to the ends of your hair. Also, a professional assessment can tell if you need a gloss or moisture treatment. Grays or no grays, hair can be healthy at any shade.
If your head is partially dyed already, or you’re looking to stretch time between appointments, try highlights. Highlights through the top of your hair can give you longevity between visits, and once you start to see gray coming through, this is when you can go in for root touch-ups, for a low-ish maintenance approach to coloring gray. Before you commit to treatment, be clear with your stylist about what you want. Color can be tricky, and having pictures handy helps your colorist (and you) decide between dark coffee brown versus medium copper blonde.
For my fellow at-home colorists, you may already know that gray hair can be stubborn. So, after you mix your color and are ready to go with gloves on and a towel draped over your shoulders, hit those stubborn grays first; they then will have the longest processing time. Willful grays could be at the temples, the crown, new hair growth at the roots, or anywhere your last color faded more quickly than the rest. After those spots, take the time to divide your hair into four sections, then work in 1/4 slices within those sections. Professionals will tell you that a smaller work area makes for a quicker, more thorough color. Thorough is key; you don’t want to neglect the back of your head.
Next, fully saturate the root area using plenty of color. Then, go back and cross-check in the opposite direction for any stray silvery strands. It’s better to over-apply than end up with uneven coverage. To ensure the best color, be mindful of the processing time. You’ll need the full, if not extra, time for gray to soak up the pigmentation of the dye. Rinsing the color too soon can cause mixed or translucent results, with the natural gray still visible.
Whether you get gray colored by a professional or dye your own hair, be mindful of maintenance and upkeep. Some people can leave their roots for six to eight weeks between touch-ups, while some proactively color their hair every four weeks even if grays aren’t coming through. You need to be realistic about time and cost. And that cost includes protecting your color with dye-friendly shampoos and conditioners.
Of course, many women embrace the gray and grow out their gray hair. Some younger women are seeking out gray hair treatments for a full head of silver locks.
Others let go of longer hair and go for shorter styles of salt and pepper. If you decide to let it all go gray, that doesn’t mean haircare goes out of the window. In fact, you should treat your gray hair with moisturizing treatments and glosses to keep it healthy and shiny. Gray hair doesn’t have to be dingy hair.
