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Webb Weekly

280 Kane St.
South Williamsport, PA
17702


Devil’s Turnip Patch

Drive south from Williamsport on a clear autumn morning, and you might pass right by something strange sprawling across the mountainside. Just past where the Susquehanna bends, a pale scar interrupts the forest. Most people never notice it. Even those who’ve lived here their whole lives might not know it exists.

It’s called the Devil’s Turnip Patch, though that name has nearly vanished from memory. Once you pull off near Montgomery Pike and walk among the boulders, you understand why someone, sometime, gave it such a peculiar name. Thousands of rounded stones, some the size of watermelons, others big as wagon wheels, spread across acres of threadbare ground. They sit half-buried at odd angles, weathered smooth but stained pink and rust-purple, as if something tried to grow them there and gave up halfway through.

The silence hits you first. Then the texture. Run your hand across one of these supposed turnips, and you’ll meet coarse, grainy resistance. This is old stone, tough stone, the kind that refuses to surrender easily to time.

The Devil had nothing to do with it, though the real story is nearly as strange. These boulders are pieces of Tuscarora sandstone, the same hard rock that caps the ridges throughout this part of Pennsylvania. It’s tough stuff, the kind that weathers slowly and holds the mountains together.

But the Turnip Patch tells a colder tale. Between 22,000 and 17,000 years ago, when ice sheets pushed down from Canada, they stopped just north of here. Lycoming County never got crushed beneath the glaciers, but it sat at the frozen edge for thousands of years. The ground stayed locked in permafrost, frozen solid most of the year, with just a thin layer thawing each summer.

Winter after winter, water seeped into cracks in the bedrock, froze, and split the stone apart. The broken pieces worked their way downslope, sliding and tumbling through the half-frozen ground until they spread out like someone had scattered them by hand. When the ice age finally ended and the ground thawed for good, everything stopped moving. What you see now is exactly where it all came to rest.

Those iron stains give the stones their turnip colors, rusty pinks, and deep purples that early settlers must have found strange. Nothing grew well here. Nothing ever would. The soil stayed thin and poor, the rocks too numerous, the ground too stubborn. So they did what people have always done with landscapes that refuse to cooperate: they named it after the Devil.

Across these mountains, you’ll find the Devil’s name attached to all sorts of odd places. The Devil’s Chimney, the Devil’s Elbow. It was how folks made sense of things that seemed unnatural or out of place. These purple-stained boulders, half-buried and going nowhere, did look like some failed garden. Like something had tried to farm here and walked away in disgust.

The Devil’s Turnip Patch once shared company with other such landmarks around Lycoming County, but while some of those names survived in regular conversation, the Turnip Patch faded into obscurity. You can grow up just down the road in Montgomery and never hear about it. You can drive past it for thirty-six years and never know it’s there.

The Turnip Patch sits on public land near Montgomery Pike, accessible but forgotten. It remains largely as the ice left it, unchanged for thousands of years. The boulders will outlast us all, those tough Tuscarora stones still resisting, still holding their secrets.

Walk among them on a quiet afternoon, and you’re standing somewhere most of your neighbors have never been. The ice is long gone, but what it left behind remains, pressed into the mountainside like fingerprints. To discover this place after a lifetime of living nearby feels like finding hidden rooms in your childhood home. It was always there, waiting. You just had to know where to look.

The Devil’s Turnip Patch asks nothing of us except to notice and to wonder. Some stories don’t disappear because they weren’t worth telling. They fade simply because no one remembered to pass them along. Maybe that changes now, one person at a time, as folks rediscover what’s been hiding in plain sight all along.