Another rifle deer season is in the books. And if you haven’t tagged a deer yet, there’s still the late archery and flintlock seasons to look forward to. For those who were fortunate enough to fill a tag, the question naturally becomes: How do you want to remember the hunt?

Maybe you’ve got a fresh set of antlers you’re excited to show off. Or maybe there’s a pair tucked away in the garage—your son or daughter’s first buck, or the last deer your father or grandfather ever harvested—that’s been waiting for the right moment. Every set of antlers has a story behind it, no matter the size.

A neck or shoulder mount for that once-in-a-lifetime buck is an investment many hunters can justify. But smaller racks deserve a place of honor too. They mark milestones, memories, and moments in the field that matter just as much.

And the good news? Showcasing those memories doesn’t have to break the bank. Mounting your own antlers can be a fun and rewarding winter project to enjoy with whoever you call your hunting buddy.

You can go the route of a kit though your mileage will vary. There are kits for western mounts as well if those are to your taste. I am going to be focusing on a wrapped skull or antler plaque. The plastic covers that come with some of these kits in my experience are too small and don’t fit well. If you are going to go through the work of mounting them; I would recommend something a bit nicer than plastic that can make the mount look cheap.

What you will need…
• 1”x4” pine board
• Plaque (Pick a size appropriate for the spread of the antlers)
• Touch n’ Foam
• Bondo
• Sandpaper
• 1 yard of fabric/material (1 yd is probably enough but it’s nice to have a bit extra)
• Stain
• Cord Trim.

Optional:
• Plexiglass / Acrylic
• Upholstery Tacks.

Not including costs for screws, hanging hooks, etc. You may spend about $100.

I. Prepare the Skull Plate

First you need to make sure to clean the skull plate of any flesh and hide. The sooner you do this the better.

II. Shape the Form.

Cut a oval shape to your desired shape out of the 1˝ board. Generally you want the wood block to be about the width of the widest point of the skull. Drill two holes through the skull plate, one on either side of the sagittal suture that separates the two parietal bones. Screw the skull plate to the oval wood block you cut. You will want to grind the screws flat if they came through the back of the block.

This is a good time to also prepare the plaque if you bought an unfinished one. Sand any rough edges. Stain if necessary.

Wrap the burr and lower beam of each antler with masking tape to keep the foam or Bondo from getting on them.
Spray Touch N’ foam into the skull cavity and spread over the rest of the wood block. The idea is that it will expand giving you a ‘form’. Once it hardens (usually overnight) you can cut the foam to shape and sand smooth.

Now you can apply the Bondo applying it as smoothly as possible. Wear a mask and ensure there is some ventilation because of the fumes. Also wear rubber gloves as it can irritate the skin. Spread the Bondo up to the bur above the pedicles but leave a bit of a gap so you can tuck the fabric in under the pedicle. Once it hardens (Check the can for suggested curing times), sand smooth.

III. Stretching & Fastening the Fabric.

Cut a square of fabric large enough to cover the form and wrap around the back. Orient the square so that it looks like a diamond when laying on top of the form. Cut along the antler down to the burr. Gradually cut a little bit at a time to fit the covering around the pedicle and tuck into the gap you created between the burr and the Bondo.

The next part is probably the hardest. The idea is that you want to stretch the fabric over the form and then staple it to the wood block on the back. I recommend securing the top and bottom and then stretch the fabric in one direction, fasten it, then the same to the other side. It will help if you look at a video on YouTube for how to do this. You can always pry the staples out with a screwdriver if you aren’t happy with how it’s stretched. You want to try and minimize wrinkles. Cut any excess so it is as flat as possible on the back. When done it should have a smooth covering over the front of the form.

IV. Attach to the Plaque.

Once you have the form wrapped you are ready to put it on the plaque. If your plaque is large enough you can shift the antlers up a bit higher on the plaque so that you can include a picture. Screw the form and antlers onto the front of the plaque by putting screws through the back of the plaque into wood back of the form. Ensure the antlers are sitting straight before securing them in place. Try a ‘dry fit’ first.

If you choose to include a photo; cut the picture to a desired size and then cut a piece of acrylic/plexiglass to the size of the image. Drill a hole in each corner. Be sure not to apply too much pressure as Acrylic can crack. Place the picture on the plaque with the acrylic on top and then gently tap an upholstery tack into each hole.

You can then wrap a bit of cord around the base of the form on the plaque to offset it from the plaque. If there is a bit of bone showing from the wrap you can also wrap some cord around the pedicles beneath the burr to cover it.

With the last screw tightened and hanger attached, the antlers are ready for their place on the wall—where they become more than just décor. Big or small, it’s not the measurements you’ll be talking about when someone asks about them. It’s the story behind them. The cold air, the excitement, the stillness before the shot, the company you kept, and the good times shared.

A simple mount gives those moments a second life. Every time you walk past it, you’re reminded of why we head into the woods in the first place. In the end, preserving antlers isn’t just about displaying a trophy. It’s about keeping the memory of the hunt alive—one more season, one more year, one more story worth telling.